Sacai summer 16 collection_beyond all expectations

Sacai Chitose Abe is one of the inspirational collections since some seasons. Here is an inspiring article from BUSINESS OF FASHION. All credits of the text here belong to BOF !

„PARIS, France — Vintage clothing is fashion’s greatest resource, but there aren’t many designers who use it as anarchically as Sacai’s Chitose Abe. The collection she showed on Monday reworked the basest elements — souvenir scarves, old bandanas and cardigans — as pell-mell prints and densely textured embroideries, distorted almost beyond recognition (was that really an upside-down woolly mammoth we saw on a wrapped skirt?).But distortion was the key to the collection. If Sacai’s signature has always been the hybrid — formal and casual, hard and soft — Abe pushed it here, so that garments tumbled into glorious disarray, necklines and waistbands giving way with gay abandon. Front-on catwalk photography will never do them justice, because it was out back that the most extraordinary effects were achieved. Outfits switched personalities from behind, the way a blue sweater, for instance, sprouted chiffon wings, or a slip dress flipped sides, inside to out.

© Text: BOF

see the complete show here: © picture: Vogue

Abe wore a Paradise Garage t-shirt backstage. The early-80s New York club is a gay nightlife legend. It inspired her last collection for men. The sensual chaos it represented for her was explored in the laser-cut, gold-embroidered pieces that closed the show. They looked a little like lace, but they had a harder edge, which went with the hip=slung gold lamé skirt and the pointy patent shoes and fishnet socks. Sex isn’t often something that comes up in discussions of Japanese fashion. The life of the mind is a more frequent reference point. But, Abe’s collection hit hard — and delightfully so —  below the belt. Simultaneously hyper-sophisticated and fiercely physical, it was the turn-on of the season in Paris.“

© Text: BOF

see the complete show here: © picture: Vogue